I'm in Peru! Can't write about that yet though as I have the whole of Bolivia to get through. I will just say that Cusco is a beautiful city and that I am very much looking forward to spending a decent amount of time here. It's lovely actually, as South America is the first chunk of my travels where I have been able to be more flexible with what my plans are, so if I decide I like Cusco then I can just stay a bit longer than I originally thought, and that is fine by me! Unfortunately at present I am paying for the fact that I did exactly that in La Paz (capital of Bolivia); I ended up staying ten days and the majority of those were spent having way too much fun. Ah well, all's well that ends well and now I am recuperating in a lovely little private room in a lovely (not so) little city, getting ready to move into a (maybe not so) lovely (definitely not) little 'party hostel' tomorrow...what a life!
But first things first...Bolivia. Well, I don't even know where to start really; Bolivia completely exceeded my expectations! It's a country of stunning natural diversity, a history full of drama, more brightly clad and fascinating indigenous people than you could shake a wooden flute at, and, best of all, the most colourful and cosy woollen items that I have ever seen in my life! So actually maybe that wasn't the best thing about Bolivia, but I think it may be the thing that sticks in my mind the longest...you simply cannot get away from alpaca wool and I do not believe that that's a bad thing!
My time in Bolivia didn't get off to the best of starts. At the end of my last blog I outlined my travel plans for the next few days, plans that meant that I wouldn't be on a twenty four hour bus for my birthday. Those plans went somewhat awry. This resulted in me being on not only a twenty four hour bus, but also another twelve hour bus for my birthday, so I actually woke up, was awake and went to sleep on buses for the entirety of my twenty third birthday - not ideal. Basically what happened was that I got to Asuncion (first stop) and there was a bus leaving an hour later. Well, that seemed to be a tad fateful to me, as it saved me spending a night in a country that I didn't really want to be in, so I jumped aboard and thought that at least I would spend the night of my birthday in Santa Cruz. That bus was an experience and a half. To get to Bolivia from Asuncion you drive through an area called the Trans Chaco, which is essentially an (almost) unpopulated scrub land, where the 'road' is a dirt track, and all that you can see for miles and miles, or what amounts to about nine hours, are little bushes dotting the landscape. Somewhere in the middle of that is the Paraguay/Bolivia border, where everyone gets off the bus to go through border control, filling in some highly questionable forms along the way, gets a stamp in their passport and then trundles back on to the bus. Once we were in Bolivia proper, the terrain changed dramatically, so that we were climbing up the same sort of dirt tracks, but this time going up and over mountains. This was, how shall I say, an interesting experience, as I had heard horror story after horror story about how during the rainy season (which is from January to April) landslides turn this road to slush and buses get stuck for days at a time, and looking over the edge of the road that our bus was teetering around, I was wondering how on earth buses stay on it during the dry season let alone the wet! There were no disasters though, and the only problem that I had was the Bolivian man sitting next to me. At first I perceived him to a cheery, chubby chappy, but it turned out that actually he was an obese pain in the bum. He spread out over both of our seats, would not leave me alone despite my pleas that I just wanted to sleep and, worst of all, when I finally did manage to doze off, he woke me up by trying to hold my hand! Not the perfect bus partner to say the least!
When we arrived in Santa Cruz I was just glad to get off the bus and away from my admirer and I planned on spending the night there to break the journey a bit. However, when I went to a booth to get my ticket for the next day, the man behind the counter kindly informed that there was in fact a bus leaving in thirty minutes which he could get me on, and in a moment of utter insanity, I bought a ticket and found myself waiting at the fourth platform in two days. I'm still not sure what made me do it. I think it was the thought of having to wake up in the morning with prospect of another bus journey hanging over me, whereas at least this way when I woke up the next day I would know that I would be getting off buses for a while. Well whatever it was, it had me on a bus to Sucre that night. Seeing as it was my birthday and I was clearly going to spend it all on buses I decided I had better open my cards and presents then. Bad idea. There I was, sitting all alone, on my fourth bus of two days, surrounded by strangers, cold, hungry and in need of a wee, already feeling, shall we say, a tad emotional, and I decide to get out birthday greetings from my nearest and dearest. Needless to say, this tipped me over the edge, and every new thing that I opened led to a fresh wave of tears. Don't get me wrong, I am so very grateful that anybody even considered sending things all the way to South America with Carris, and they brought me a lot of happiness, but at the time, they just completely overwhelmed me.
At this point I thought thing could get no worse. And then it started raining. Inside the bus. Looking back it was funny actually, as I glanced out the window to see it absolutely chucking it down and thought to myself, 'oh well, at least I have all my belongings with my on the bus and so they won't get wet underneath', but then felt a drip on the back of my neck, which became a trickle, which became a stream, until I was literally sitting in the rain, desperately trying to prevent everything I owned from soaking up all the water! I guess at least the rain hid the fact that I was almost bawling my eyes out! Not my best birthday. In fact, I can safely say it was my worst birthday. The way I am thinking of it however, is that in this year I am getting way more than my fair share of utterly incredible days, so it is a small price to pay to have one day that is utterly rubbish. I will just have to make up for it next year! Maybe a 'transport' theme...
The journey did mean that when I finally arrived in Sucre I was a very happy girl. I would say that I had never been so glad to get to a place, but that would mean forgetting some other joyous journeys I have done this year, and by no means was this the worst! Enough whinging though and on to the good stuff. Sucre is such a lovely city. It is choc-a-bloc with white colonial style buildings, has a stunning central plaza and cathedral, and is surrounded by beautiful mountain scenery. It has a really relaxed atmosphere to it, as although it is a University town it doesn't feel partyish, just young, invigorating and full of history and culture. There are museums around every corner, interspersed with delicious restaurants and chocolate shops, which Sucre is famous for. Possible best of all, the whole bottom floor of the central market was jam-packed with fruit and vegetables that you could buy yourself to cook, as well as stall after stall selling fresh fruit salads and shakes that were to die for. After Brazil, where it was difficult to find anything with vitamins in it, this was luxury and I spent a small Bolivian fortune (ie about 40pence per time) on shakes, salads and avocados...yummy! The hostel I was staying at had a really well equipped kitchen too, so a friend I met there and I decided to make the most of it and cook for ourselves. It was so nice after half a year's travelling to get in to a kitchen and make something for myself, and to actually feel healthy! I was in Sucre just under a week and ended up taking a few Spanish lessons. I'm glad I did as my confidence has definitely improved, as has my vocabulary, but my teacher was not the best. She was a very sweet woman, but she broke the cardinal teaching rule of not having enough material, so we ended up spending quite a lot of time with her pointing at objects and asking me what they were in Spanish, which, obviously, I didn't know! Never mind though, it definitely made me improve and I have been practicing a lot more since so now I can get by with most things I need to do, it's just a shame that I am still a long way off real conversation with any local people.
One great thing about Sucre was that it was where I met people who have shaped my travels since. I had planned on leaving there, having a few days in Potosi, a leisurely time at the salt flats and ending up in La Paz maybe a week and a half later. However, it seemed that our whole hostel in Sucre was planning on being in La Paz for St Patrick's day, something I hadn't even considered. Apparently that that was the place to be though, so I jumped on the band wagon and hatched a ridiculous plan to get me there in time. This involved arriving in Potosi one morning, leaving that night, starting my salt flat tour the next morning, and then leaving for La Paz the night I got back from that...slightly punishing I am sure you can imagine!
In Potosi all I did (but to be fair, all I wanted to do) was the mine tour. Potosi is the highest city in the world at 4070m above sea level and is the site of a massive mine, which is the city's main tourist attraction. We spent about two hours in the mines in total, and they were two very unpleasant hours of crouching, crawling, climbing, breathing in a lot of chemical dust, banging head on the low ceilings, jumping out of the way of mine trucks, and chewing copious amounts of coca leaves in an attempt to ward off the horrendous altitude sickness, which manifested as nausea, dizziness and extreme breathlessness...not great when you are stuck in a small confined space! I'm really glad I did it though as it is always good to get a perspective on another way of life, and this really is a way of life more than a job. Despite the horrific working conditions and dangers of the job, the miners are so proud that that is what they do. Our guide was an ex-miner and it made him so happy to be able to show us his old way of life, not just the mining aspect, but their mythology in the mines. We went to see Tio, which is an idol of the mining devil to whom the miners make offerings for safety and success and all around the idol were little plastic bottles from the ninety six percent alcohol that plays a big part in all of the festivities that they celebrate down there. It seems bizarre to me that they would choose to spend any more time down in that hell hole than they absolutely have to, but clearly they do, and they enjoy it, and that was good to see.
From Potosi it was straight to Uyuni for our salt flat tour. Apart from almost every symptom of altitude sickness under the sun, this was one of the highlights of my trip so far; it was phenomenal! We had a three day tour and it was all just so breathtaking. The first day was the Salar de Uyuni, the famous Bolivian salt flats left over from an ancient inland sea. I had seen lots of pictures of this, but nothing prepares you for the surreal beauty that is its reality. Literally as far as you can see there is just an expanse of white and although that sounds boring, the way it messes with your perception of distance is mind boggling! We did lots of photos playing with this, like me being squished between someone's hands, or doing yoga balanced on top of a coca cola bottle which was a lot of fun, but the best part of it was just standing there staring out across it, and being unable to really process what you were seeing...unreal. Lots of people only do the one day tour and so basically just see the salt flats, but I am so glad we did more as the next two days were packed full of some equally amazing sights. The highlights for me were the red lagoon where we sat for about an hour watching I don't even know how many flamingos in their natural habitat. It was amazing to be so close to such an exotic creature in the wild, and I found them fascinating. In flight they are super graceful, but when you see them stumbling around and tottering on one leg they seem a lot more comedic! I was with a brilliant Aussie girl I had met and the two of us were so overwhelmed by what we were seeing...great moment. Apart from that I really enjoyed just generally driving around in the jeep and seeing the scenery which changed so dramatically from mountains, to lagoons, to deserts, to intricate rock formations, to the Salvador Dali desert which is a desert littered with rocks from nearby volcanoes that look like they have been carefully placed to look random; so interesting!
Next stop was La Paz...where it all went wrong. Not really, just where I got stuck having much too much fun and ran myself down to the point of the plague that I am now dealing with. The trouble was that I booked into Wild Rover, an Irish hostel with an in house Irish bar, and I was there for the finals of the six nations rugby and St Patrick's day...so it was a little wild; a lot of fun though! La Paz itself is a really cool city. It is the highest capital in the world and the whole place is on these little, very steep, cobbled streets which are full of local people selling everything you can imagine and more. I'm not actually sure what ever possessed anyone to build a city there; it seems completely illogical!There is also a witches' market where you could pick up anything from bee pollen and natural cosmetics (which I did) to dried llama foetuses and love potions (which I did not)...it was intriguing if a tad scary!
Apart from wandering the streets and enjoying myself in the hostel I also did two outdoorsy things out of the city. The first of these was the infamous Death Road...apparently the most dangerous road in the world which you can now cycle down. Why I did this I have no idea...it was utterly terrifying. Saying that though, I am the only person I know who found it so scary; everyone else seems to have loved it! I won't say too much about it here or else I will get in trouble with Mum, but needless to say I was glad to get to the bottom of it, and very proud of myself that I did! It is amazing though as you cycle down 3600m, from cold high altitude mountains to hot tropical forest in the space of a few hours, so the scenery is incredible. Shame that I was too scared to look at it really! The second thing was much more enjoyable, and that was paragliding. We went about forty minutes out of the city for it into the mountains and it was stunning. I actually went first out of our group which was a bit daunting but it turned out really well as my co flier was able to get some good upwinds so we actually ended up above the clouds at one point. We were in the air for twenty minutes or so, and the views were spectacular; snow capped mountains all around and La Paz nestled in a valley in the distance - beautiful. It's something I have always wanted to do so I absolutely loved it...sky diving next!
Last stop in Bolivia was Lake Titicaca, the largest high altitude lake in the world. When they say that though, it doesn't really give you an idea of just how large that is; it is massive, as in about twice the size of Wales! It was odd actually as we went over to stay on Isla del Sol on the lake and did a few walks there, and with the landscape it actually looked a lot like Pembrokeshire's coast path at times, but I had to keep reminding myself that it wasn't the sea I was looking at but a lake! The island was perfect - so secluded and unspoilt (at least in the North where we were) and the perfect antidote to city living. All we could hear most of the time was the lake lapping the shores, the wind blowing and the occasional donkey braying in the distance...blissful. Hiking there was challenging because of the altitude but it was so worth it and made me both apprehensive and excited for trekking up to Machu Picchu in the near future. A very beautiful place.
So that was Bolivia! I could say a lot more but a) I think I have written enough and b) the lovely man who lent me his laptop is back and wants to watch football or some sort of sport. I did love Bolivia though and I feel quite grateful to it as a country as it opened my eyes to the fact that I actually like nature a lot more than I thought I did. I always thought I was more of a city/town girl and that history and culture were my things, but it turns out that a beautiful landscape gets me just as much! Not sure that I should be thanking Bolivia for that though as that opens up a lot more places in the world that I would love to go and see, as if there weren't enough already! Oh well, I guess at least I have a lifetime to go and see as much as I can :)
On that note, farewell for now, hope you are all doing wonderfully!
Lots of love,
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